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When compiling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect familiar award-winning venues. Yet, tucked prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This honour has made the family completely shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says the owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.